Kenya Trip Report August 2009

Tour Leader/Trip Report : Pieter Verheij
Local Guide : Joseph Mwang

Day One – August 3rd - Arrival at Nairobi Airport – Fairview Hotel.

The group arrived in the evening of the 3rd all together at Nairobi airport. Unfortunately one of the suitcases was missing. The completion of all necessary formalities took some hours, and when we finally arrived in our hotel (hotel Fairview in Nairobi) it was already after midnight.

After breakfast at a quite decent time we went to the Nairobi National Park at only 8 km from our hotel. The park is huge and very soon I realized that my concern to visit a nature reserve so close to a major city was unfounded. It turned out to be one of the quietest places we would visit during the trip. It is strange to see in the skyline the profile of Nairobi city and at the same time to enjoy a abundant bird and wildlife. The Nairobi National Park with highland forest, Acacia woodland, rocky escarpments, open grassland, large ponds and small streams is home to a wide variety of birds and mammals

We saw more than 70 different bird species, including White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher, African White-backed Vulture, Olive Thrush, Baglafecht Weaver, Grey Crowned Crane, Speckled Mousebird, Bronze Mannikin, Pin-tailed Whydah, Martial Eagle, Emerald-spotted Wood Dove, Stout Cisticola, Saddle-billed Stork, African Quail-Finch, Hartlaub's Bustard, Marabou Stork, Madagascar Scuacco Heron, and we also managed to see many mammals such as Nyala, Rothschild Giraffe, Chapman's Zebra, Buffalo, Red Hartebeest, Grant's Gazelle, and we also found the Black Rhinoceros.

Around 7 am we left Nairobi and headed for Mount Kenya. This day we had to travel around 180 km and having the whole day and a packed lunch we felt free to include some very interesting stops. The first stop we made was at Thika, where we had a walk around the local water purification plants. The big water basins and the insects attracted by the dirt water, almost guarantee interesting birds. We had Black-winged Lapwing, Crowned Plover, Hadada Ibis, Sacred Ibis, Glossy Ibis, Fawn-coloured Lark, Fisher's Lovebird, D'Arnaud's Barbet, Three-banded Plover, Speke's Weaver (f), White-browed Sparrow Weaver, Spur-winged Plover, Straw-tailed Whydah, Bronze Sunbird (f), When we left this place we also found, in the surrounding bushes, interesting birds such as Purple Grenadier, Little Bee-eater, African Dusky Flycatcher.

Further on we had several stops and always finding interesting species like Red-billed Firefinch, Montane White-eye and the very elusive Hinde's Babbler. At around 18.00 we arrived at Serena Mountain Lodge. An interesting building, on the outside covered with green painted wooden panels, which makes this building almost disappear into the forest. The Lodge is located on the lower slopes of Mount Kenya , Africa’s second tallest mountain, and is an excellent place to locate many highland forest species. Looking from the windows down on a big water hole, where all kind of game and bird are coming for a drink. The hotel is applying a wake-up service when the animal of your dreams is showing up. You just need to fill in your special wish list. Really a great place to stay. We had elephants, buffalo, waterbuck, impala, warthok just observing the waterhole from our window. Unfortunately I did not get my wake-up call because that night the Leopard did not show up.

After breakfast we gathered on the roof terrace to observe the birds in the adjoining forest. Many birds showed up and gave us a good start to the day. We had good views of Eastern Bronze-naped Pigeon, Cape Wagtail, Yellow-fronted Canary, Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird, Silvery-cheeked Hornbill and many others. At around 9.00 am we left the lodge, but just outside the entrance gate of the hotel we had our first stop because we found a group of Columbus Monkeys playing in a tree along the road. We stopped and also found White-starred Robin, White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher, African Harrier Hawk. During the time (a couple of hours) we were travelling through the forest we often had to stop for other interesting specie, and on stopping, everywhere around us we found new things. Indeed a very interesting part of the trip. We saw amongst many other species Tropical Boubou, Grey-capped Warbler, Singing Cisticola, Hunter's Cisticola, Ruppell's Robin-chat. Around mid morning we left the cool climate of Mount Kenya and travelled on through a landscape with a nice variety of grasslands and forests. We had our first encounter with the Augur Buzzard, which later on seemed to be a very common raptor. The last part of the road before arriving at the Samburu National Reserve was under construction and we did not see a lot because of the enormous dust clouds generated by oncoming traffic.

At lunchtime we passed the entrance gate of Samburu National Park and very soon after that we realized that Samburu indeed is one of the most exciting reserves in East Africa. The semi desert habitat and the rich woodlands along the Ewaso Nyiro River are teeming with wildlife and an almost overwhelming array of bird species. We needed to have our packed lunch in the car, because it is too dangerous to stay out too long because of Buffalo, Lion and other wild animals. We moved on slowly towards the Samburu Serena Lodge, stopping often to look at White-headed Buffalo Weaver, Northern White-crowned Shrike, Pygmy Falcon, White-bellied Go-away-bird, Vulturine Guineafowl, Helmeted Guineafowl, Tawny Eagle, White-bellied Bustard, Buff-crested Bustard, Black-faced Sandgrouse, Red-billed Hornbill, Secretary Bird, Yellow-necked Spurfowl, Red and Yellow Barbet. And also the number and variety of mammals is great. We found amongst others Beisa Oryx, Reedbuck, Cape Mountain Zebra, Reticulated Giraffe and also a group of Lions

We arrived after a sensational couple of hours at around 6.00 pm at the lodge.

We had two full days to go out for birding and game viewing. We left after breakfast at 7.00 am and came back for lunch around 12.00, and in the afternoon we left at 3.30 pm until 6.30 pm. Every time we took a different direction and every time we found different bird species. The most exciting ones for me were Crested Francolin, Spotted Morning-Thrush, Vitelline Masked Weaver, Eastern Yellow-billed Hornbill, 3 different Mousebirds, Palm-nut Vulture, Eastern Chanting Goshawk, African Orange-bellied Parrot, Rosy-patched Bush-shrike, Somali Courser, Gabar Goshawk, Namaqua Dove, Kori Bustard, Lichtenstein's Sandgrouse. The nice thing in Samburu National Reserve is that the views are normally very good because the habitats are quite open. Although we saw many bird species during these two days there are normally even more. Parts of Kenya are suffering this year a period of draught and this has an important effect on bird and wildlife. Mammal life is also prolific and many species cannot be seen elsewhere on this tour. A small example of the many mammals we saw; Buffalo, Elephant, Olive Baboon, different Mongoose species, Dik dik, Red Hartebeest, Cheetah.

We left after breakfast at around 7.00 am because this day we had to do quite a long distance and having in mind the first part of the road under construction, we did not want to lose too much time. On our way we passed a large rocky escarpment which is a favorite roosting spot for the Mackinder’s Eagle Owl. The problem for this Owl and Owls in general is that the local people believe that Owls bring bad luck. Thanks to the efforts of a small group of local people living in this region, the Mackinder’s Eagle Owl is more or less protected and that has been the reason that this specie does well in the region, with an actual population of 26 birds right now. One member of this group showed us the place where a pair is nesting and we were able to get excellent views of both the male and the female. Really a very good initiative. We had several other stops and arrived in the afternoon at Lake Nakuru National Park. From outside the gate you can see parts of the lake already and the views are spectacular. Huge numbers of Lesser Flamingos feed in the shallow alkaline water, everywhere where you look. Having seen this I can image why people call this the greatest birding spectacle on earth.

We went to the lodge to check in and around 4.00 pm we left the lodge again to get a closer look of the lake. There are several entrance points where you can drive to the waterfront. The hundred thousands of birds are almost not taking any notice of the curious visitors. You can stay there for hours to watch the spectacle. Big flocks of White Pelicans are flying in and landing just in front of you. One Greater Flamingo rises up high above the thousands of Lesser Flamingos. A Pied Kingfisher hovering above the water. The African Fish Eagle with the particular sound causing a lot of turmoil when it flies over. To many things to mention. Sarova Lion Hill Lodge is a very good place to stay.

The grounds are producing many species and easy to see. The ambiance in the lodge is very nice with the evening performances of local groups, making African music. The next day we left after breakfast for birding and game drive and we did the same in the afternoon. Lake Nakuru National Park has much more to offer than just the “Flamingo Spectacle”. Driving around in the Park produces many exiting birds such as Arrow-marked Babbler, African Thrush, Greater blue-eared Starling, Lilac-breasted Roller, African Spoonbill, Green Wood-hoopoe, African Hoopoe, Rattling Cisticola, Bearded Woodpecker, African Paradise Flycatcher, Red-throated Wryneck, Striped Kingfisher, Cliff Chat, Little Rockthrush, Scarlet-chested Sunbird. The Park is also very interesting for Mammals, you can see big herds of Buffalo, Impala, Rhinoceros, Rock Hyrax, Zebra and many more. In this place we had our first, and unfortunately for this trip, only Leopard. Taking a rest in the shade, lying in a big tree. Driving back in the afternoon along the road we found a group of 9 Lionesses almost hidden in the tall grasses. As the guide told us “Be careful to leave the car to have a …” It is clear that the draught had also its effect in this place, but it did not lose much of its attraction.

In the morning we went back to the waterfront of Lake Nakuru to enjoy again the spectacular views of the hundred thousands of Birds. This view will never get boring. We stayed in the park looking for new species, which we actually found in Spectacled Weaver, Red-cheeked Cordonblue, Southern Ground hornbill, Yellow Bishop, Kittlitz Plover, Pied Crow, Brown-crowned Tchagra, Hildebrandt's Francolin, African Crowned Eagle, and enjoyed another nice lunch in the Sarova Lion Hill Lodge. This day we were not in a hurry because in around two hours we can drive to Lake Baringo. After lunch we left this fantastic place and went to the north.

Lake Baringo is a fresh water lake. Here the combination of a large lake in semi-desert country and the nearby Baringo Cliffs provide the perfect habitat for a great diversity of bird life. On arrival the first thing that drew our attention was the fact that this place was much more quiet than the places we had visited so far. August is high season in Kenya and all the places we had visited so far were (almost) fully booked. This place was our first stop without game. Lake Baringo is known for birding. Here you could clearly see that birders are only a very small part of Kenya´s visitors. Every time seeing a new beautiful bird we discussed in the group that we felt sorry for all those game watchers missing the best part of nature.

Lake Baringo Country Club is located on the waterfront of the Baringo Lake. The mature gardens are fantastic and produce many different bird species. The Lodge itself is acceptable but could not come up to our high standards. Unfortunately there are no really better alternatives.

There has been opened a new lodge with luxury rooms not far away, but it will miss the charm of the mature gardens and being directly on the waterfront.

After checking in we had a walk in the gardens and found some great species: Bristle-crowned Starling, Speckled Pigeon, Black-headed Weaver, Northern Masked Weaver, African Scops Owl, Hamerkop. When we went back to our rooms just before dark we had a nice encounter with a Verreaux´s Eagle Owl.

The next morning we left early for a walk with a local guide of the Village who showed is some very interesting new species as Golden-backed Weaver, Slender-tailed Nightjar, Beautiful Sunbird, Black-throated Barbet, Madagascar Bee-eater, Spotted Eagle Owl (a pair), Spotted Thick-knee, Redfronted Warbler, Jackson's Hornbill. We walked through the village and in the Acacias towards the Baringo Cliffs. Besides seeing new species, we also got a good impression of the daily life in a Kenyan village. This local guide brought us to several places where we found White-faced Scops Owl, Hueglin's Courser, Northern Grey Tit. It was interesting to see how the people in the village are collaborating to show us the places where those species could be found. In the afternoon we stayed on the grounds of the Lodge and were able to see Nubian Woodpecker, Woodland Kingfisher, Wattled Starling, African Mourning Dove, Lesser Honeyguide, Greater Honeyguide and many more. sitting on the lawn with his legs in a shallow hole filled with water. I never had a view that close of this fantastic specie. After sunset the Hippopotamus’ are leaving the water and coming to graze the lawns. This gives very good views of this animal but can also be very dangerous, because they are coming within ten meters of the rooms. There is a guardian to take care that nothing happens.

Before Breakfast we left for a boat ride on the lake. There are several companies organizing boat tours, but we chose the organization from the local community, with the same local guide we had the day before for our morning walk.
The boat-ride was superb with the absolute highlight an African Fish Eagle coming to pick out of the water a big fish we had bought from one of the local fisher-men before leaving . Besides this spectacular action of the Eagle we saw some other very good birds Goliath Heron, African Jacana, Senegal Thick-knee, Malachite Kingfisher, Black Crake and flying just over our heads the Giant Kingfisher.
Before we left the local guide wanted to show us the Black-headed Lapwing, a specie that we missed the day before. This time we had more luck and we found a pair in the semi-desert area not far from the lodge.
We decided to take a packed lunch and to leave for Lake Naivasha. We had some stops because our guide spotted a Silver-backed flycatcher and we wanted to buy some real African honey. We had seen so many bee-hives hanging up in the Acacia Trees that we really wanted to know more about that honey. With help of our guide we all bought some, giving one of the women a fantastic day. The honey has the real African taste and is very nice.

Lake Naivasha was a disappointment. The drought in this part of Kenya had effected the water level which made it useless to have a boat ride. Around the lake there have been build in the last fifteen years many enormous Nurseries for cultivation of flowers (tulips) basically owned by Dutch and Italian Companies. These companies need a lot of water for their plants seriously effects the water level of the Lake. According to our Guide the birdlife always was very interesting but had dropped now to a very low level.
Lake Naivasha Country Club is part of the same group as Lake Baringo Country Club. The same tendency of decline in quality you could observe in this place too. Beautiful location with spectacular gardens, but general maintenance and service in decline.

Our guide came up with some interesting suggestions for birding the next day. We left after breakfast and visited some nice locations along the lake where we found several new species Great Cormorant, Schalow's Wheatear, Yellow-collared Lovebird, Abyssinian White-eye, Violet-backed Starling, Red-billed Firefinch, Red-headed Weaver, African Black-headed Oriole, Long-crested Eagle. A very good compensation for the lack of birds on the Lake Naivasha Country Club.

We left after breakfast heading for the Masai Mara National Reserve. The Mara is the northern extension of the famous Serengeti Plains. Every year during July starts the migration of the hundred thousands of Wilde Beast from the Serengeti to the Mara region looking for food. This gives spectacular views. Complimenting the wildlife is the dramatic scenery of endless grasslands, lush river valleys and steep rock strewn escarpments. The Mara is a very good area to see wildlife in big groups but also birdlife is abundant and very interesting. After entering one of the main gates we drove slowly on the tracks towards the Lodge, stopping to look at birds and game. We found Hildebrandt's Starling, Magpie Starling, Ruppell's Long-tailed Starling, Sooty Chat, Lappet-faced Vulture, African Wattled Lapwing, Crowned Lapwing, Bare-faced Go-away-bird
We stayed the first two nights in Mara Serena Safari Lodge. Located on a hill overlooking the 1,800 square kilometers of rolling plains, woodlands and rivers that make up the Masai Mara Triangle - one of the world's richest wildlife sanctuaries. The lodge is really magic. From the rooms you can observe the movements of Wilde Beast in long endless rows. Their reaction on the sound of a roaring lion. Elephants just below your window. A special experience.
We did our daily game and birding drives in the (early) morning after breakfast and in the afternoon after a nice lunch and a moment to relax.

Some highlights: We found one morning a male lion with one of his lionesses, having a good time, we found groups of Hyenas and had spectacular views of river crossings of thousands of Blue Wildebeest and Zebra.
Some of the many birds we saw: Ruppell's Griffon Vulture, Black-bellied Bustard, Yellow-throated Longclaw, Grey-capped Social-Weaver, Wooly-necked Stork, Yellow-billed Stork, Dark Chanting-Goshawk, Grey Kestrel, Brown Snake Eagle, Black-chested Snake Eagle, Cinnamon-breasted Rock Bunting.The last two nights we stayed in Mara Sarova Tented Camp. Again a nice place with a different atmosphere. We had one day left to visit the Masai Mara plains and we used that day well to find some species we wanted to see again, or we did not see before: We were finally lucky to find Black-lored Babbler, Rufous-crowned Roller, Bateleur (often seen but never sitting so close), Red-necked Spurfowl, White-browed Coucal, Red-rumped Swallow, Lesser Striped Swallow, Rufous-chested Swallow, Black-crowned Tchagra, Magpie Shrike, Rosy-breasted Longclaw.
Our last afternoon we stayed in the camp and made a walk in the afternoon. A nice surprise was the Giant Kingfisher waiting for us near a small pond and the Shikra sitting in a tree next to it.

This day we had to drive back to Nairobi. We had plans to have some stops, but after the first stop, where we had to run back to the car because of really heavy rain, we decided to drive strait back and take the afternoon off. We ended our trip with a fantastic meal offered by one of our guests. Our first trip had been a great success and has given us the information to make the next trip even better

The species list below gives all the species we have seen during our trip. We have selected them in Family-groups and given the english as well as the latin names.